Sunrise

Rise and shine! The sun might be rising, but we're about to throw down!

When you want to call in the heavy artillery around Napa, you look to the hills. Specifically, Howell and Spring Mountain. These two AVAs are home to some of the most treasured wines in the valley.

And today we have an interpretation from each.

First up, Entry No. 026, appropriately dubbed "Sunrise".

The Mayacamas-born Spring Mountain blend comes sourced from one of the most respected vineyards on the mountain. Keenan sits just below Pride, and they're one of the "OGs" around here. A true family operation, around since 1977, and never seeking fame or fortune or trends - just making killer wines year after year, which get scooped up by a loyal following they've built.

They're also one of the first wineries I visited after moving here. A long, windy road is often the only way into the “true” Napa wineries. This isn’t a monument to somebody’s ego. Their pours are generous pours, the dogs friendly, and the prices reasonable (back then AND today).

And their Merlot, especially, is the stuff of legend.

Our source affectionately calls Keenan's Merlot "The Beast". It's some of the finest you'll find in all of Napa Valley. And it plays a starring role in their portfolio, which includes 98, 99 and 100 points across several of their 2023 releases. I expect the same of their '24s.

And you'll part with $185 for their own Spring Mountain flagship...

The style here is increasingly rare: less new oak, an embrace of the mountain's climate and soils, and little interest in chasing trends. It's one of integrity. Discipline. Expression.

But what emerged here was an experiment neither winery would have created on its own.

Something uniquely "Archival". Archivellian? 

And when we chased down a lot from Howell Mountain that had an equally impressive frame, the lightbulb went off in Bobby's head. This is one of the ways I love how he thinks, as we get a lesson in comparing these two different expressions of high end, high elevation Napa wines.

So here's where the lesson comes. The true meaning of "Sunrise".

On Spring Mountain, the early sun shines more in the blue-spectrum due to atmospheric conditions. Ripening is driven primarily by photosynthesis because it is very efficient at this higher-energy wavelength. Acid holds. The fruit stays a bit more lifted. Tannins develop with restraint. There’s a verve and freshness and a more layered feel and definition in the wine's youth.

While Merlot dominates, the remaining 38% Cab Sauv and 5% Cab Franc masterfully blend in, bringing structure, lift, and depth. Compared to the "Sunset", this shows a slightly brighter, deep red and black fruited style, with rippling acidity. While both of these will surely benefit from some time, the Spring Mountain seems a bit more open from the immediate pop and pour. A core of tightly wound brambly blackcurrant, red and black cherries, and baked black plums emerges with a savory edge of shiitake and tobacco and graphite right up front. It’s potent but postured, with a little more “give” in its structure and has a wonderful balance between the acidity, texture and ripe fruit.

Give this one some time and PLENTY of air when you do open it. A long, slow decant will do you well. Enjoy in the near term, or in twenty years. It's a ride or die kind of wine.