Notes from the Archivist

"Smuggler's Handshake"

JFC, aka John “Fucking” Caldwell has a larger than life reputation in Napa. And his wines reflect that, known for being huge and hulking, with enormous depth and power. Hauntingly deep, dark, and brooding – they’re huge hits with collectors and connoisseurs for good reason.

They also come with a price.

$100-$150 is the standard going rate for just about any bottle with the famed vineyard name on it.

While most of our wines have been, and will be preserved under a layer of secrecy in some ways, this comes with no redaction.

The kimono is wide open, and we’ve been busting at the seams to get this one out there.

Notes from Bobby:

This was an awesome experience. I’ve been friends with the winemaker Marc Gagnon for a few years. And recently befriended Joy Caldwell about a year ago. John always remained elusive. He’s often on a quad wearing his cowboy hat just cruising around and checking in on his vineyard crews.

When I approached Joy about this project she was interested but apprehensive. They do sell their bulk wine regularly, however no one ever is allowed to put “Caldwell Vineyard” on the label. We discussed the idea for about half an hour back in March and we agreed to the terms necessary to allow their proud name to be put on another label.

The deal: All estate fruit, multiple rounds of blending and final approval by John and Marc. No blending after it leaves their facility.

And pay extra…

This was an opportunity for me to learn about Caldwell estate. I explained I wanted a wine that was a little softer than their usual offerings. Something approachable in its youth, but with depth, structure and the stuffing to last in the cellar.

So, with that known, we set out into the cave under their mountain and tasted lot after lot.

I don’t typically take many notes in a tasting like this. You need to experience the wines, not hold a clipboard. It was eye opening to see the palette Marc gets to work with. The rolling hills yield multiple varieties and clones. The age of the vines vary. Nuances in the terrain and soil types.

Beautiful and intimidating at the same time. So much of what they make there is a bit more extracted than what I was hoping to find. Their estate wines are only sold DTC and they expect their customers to age their wines for many years in the cellar before popping a cork. But this is not necessarily our intention with Archival. I wanted these wines to be enjoyable out of the gate.

After about twelve different lots/blocks, I honed in on what would be closer to the style I wanted. Two barrels from there, a puncheon from over there, that one tank tasted great, and that cab franc peaked my interest as well. So, we left with a plan to reconvene in another month. They would pull samples of what I thought would work, six different lots in total, and I would sit down in the Caldwell lab and blend.

The day came at the end of May to finalize the blend. They had twelve sample bottles in front of me. This is when you start taking notes, build the spreadsheet and lay it all out. Marc gave me space, they stayed working near me and I was able to ask questions, explain what I was experiencing with certain lots and how they mended well or clashed. It was great to tell Marc, “Hey what’s up with Block 9, supple and great mid palate. I need more length. Kruezer is working well but it’s not getting me all the way to where I want to go.” And he tastes where I am and recognizes my dilemma. He says “Try the Vandal or Block 15”. So I embark on that. Block 15 was a no go, although pretty good on its own, it made the wine too sharp and bitter. The Vandal was interesting. It’s a Cab Franc block. I always look to CF to provide lift, length and spice. So, I said, “well fuck it, let’s go with 12% Vandal.” Well, that didn’t work out. I started parsing it down…9%, 6%…still too much…then started playing in the 3-5% range. It’s shocking sometimes to see how a  1-2% can change a wine from good to great.

In the end I had that moment, that one when you rest…because “this is it!”

This is what I want to bottle.

I blended it up for Marc to sample and went to his desk and said “This is what I like.”

He rose from his chair and took a walk swirling and sipping. Contemplating. He came back eventually and said “Damn, that’s good! What are you going to sell this for?”

We paid extra for this one, but did our best to keep the price as low as possible. 

95 Points – Decanter

“Famously dubbed Napa’s “vine smuggler” for sneaking prized French clones into California in the 1980s, Caldwell not only helped shape the region’s vineyards but also championed Coombsville long before it became an official AVA. Drawn from select barrels and puncheons of Block 9, Kreuzer, and Vandal fruit, the wine is unabashedly bold—power-packed and robust, with penetrating layers of black and blue fruit wrapped in rich oak spice, turned earth, and graphite minerality. Fine-boned acidity and cocoa-powder tannins provide structure, while a savoury thread of smoked sea salt lifts and brightens the dark, textured core.”